Tra Vigne Restaurant
1050 Charter Oak Ave, St. Helena, California. (707- 963-4444).
Another review of Michael Chiarello's restaurant is probably unnecessary, but we will do one because we have eaten there so many times that to not do one seems unfair.
Tra Vigne has been a fixture in the Napa Valley for about 10 years, an eternity in the restaurant business. At times we have gone there to simply sit in the courtyard, and have a bit of lunch at the Tra Vigne Cantinetta. (See section to the right for details) The Cantinetta is the closest thing to an Italian Tavola Calda we have found in the United States. It is housed in a separate small stone building adjacent to the restaurant, and complements the more formal restaurant perfectly. The food at the Cantinetta is simple yet elegant. Much of this is due to the labor of its major-domo - Mariano.
On beautiful summer days, the setting is probably the best in the Napa Valley. On beautiful summer evenings, the pace to eat is the balcony of the restaurant. At times we have spent four nights in the Napa Valley and have eaten at Tra Vigne four times.
Unlike many reviews which are quick takes, this one results from many meals at Tra Vigne during all of the seasons. Over the years, we have eaten there, when the food was perfect, but have also had a few meals when the staff was "off". Fortunately, the latter have been very few.
Antipasti are simple and varied. The Fritti, assorted fried calamari, smelts, sardines, etc. are fried crisp in Arborio rice flour and served with a mustard seed vinegar. If the vinegar is not to your taste, the Fritti is as good with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Insalata di Gnocchi is a newer appetizer, and is probably the best thing on the current appetizer menu. The Gnocchi are pan seared and served with goat cheese and port soaked sun dried cherries, topped with a smoked Pancetta dressing. The Bresaola con Carciofi, is a great twist on a simple fresh artichoke and cheese salad. The Bresaola is cured at Tra Vigne, and is served with shaved artichokes, Olive Oil and Pecorino Pepato cheese. The fourth appetizer we had was Polenta Arrosto con Funghi - Roasted Polenta with Mushrooms - consists of oven roasted polenta with wild mushrooms served with a balsamic game sauce. It is a simple, but quite tasty dish.
Northern Halibut served on a bed of Lemon Olive Oil whipped potatoes - Grosso Rombo con Patate - arrives at the table on whipped potatoes and is accompanied by spring roasted vegetables in a veal reduction. The Halibut was cooked perfectly, but we found the potatoes a bit on the soupy side. This dish would have been better had the potatoes been served separately. Coniglio alla Griglia - Grilled Sonoma Rabbit - is a dish we have eaten at least once on every trip to Tra Vigne. It is served with Teleme Cheese layered potatoes, oven dried tomatoes and a mustard pan sauce. It is excellent. At other times it is served with polenta and a balsamic game reduction.
The most unusual dish we had was the Granchio Arrabiata. This is a pan roasted Dungeness crab served with a thick, spicy orange and basil vinaigrette. It is impossible to eat this dish with anything but your fingers, so be prepared to make a mess. It is well worth it.
A bottle of Chambord Merlot was a great accompaniment to the meal. Rather than dessert, we chose a glass of a Bonnie Doone sweet wine.
The Cost of first meal was approximately $148.00. All wines and gratuities are included in this prices.
Reviewer's Note: Since this review was written, we have eaten at Tra Vigne. at least 4 additional times. The last time was New Years Eve.1999. During this past year, the restaurant has celebrated it's 10th anniversary, and the food and service is as food as ever.
Last updated on:06/03/99 12:51:12 AM