Sugo - Pastaria Winebar

4151 N. Marshall Way; Scottsdale AZ. 85251

Ph. 480-949-7846 : Fax 480-429-9234

Operating a successful restaurant is a very difficult thing to do.  Operating two successful restaurants borders on the edge of impossibility for most.  Not so for Maurizio Cristiani, the owner of  Sugo Pastaria Winebar.  Mr Cristiani  also owns and operates Grazie Pizzeria.  See that review for details.  The chef at the restaurant is Giuseppe Osso, and it is Mr. Osso's creations at Sugo that we will describe.

The ambiance of Sugo is striking.  The basic colors are red and black.  The walls are black and the lights are red.  White tablecloths integrate these colors, and make the room quite comfortable.   The dining room is behind a well stocked bar, and is quiet and intimate.

The Menu is simple.  The pasta dishes are authentic.  The dishes at Sugo are dishes that one would expect to be found in various regions of Italy.  Appetizers include Piatto Misto - A plate of Salame, Capocollo, Prosciutto, Cheese and Olives ($10). Bruschetta Mista ($8) offers an assortment of bruschette that varies according to the chef's desires that day.  One of our favorites, and the appetizer that we ordered is Carpaccio Bresaola  - Sliced Bresaola, Arugula, Lemon and Olive Oil ($10).   We have had this dish at Grazie, and it was as good here, as there.  Consistency is important in a restaurant, and we feel demonstrates a guiding hand that demands quality across venues.  Salads are also offered and include a Caesar Salad ($9), a Caprese ($8), An Emiliana - Arugula, Baby Greens, Parmigiano, Red Onions, Ped Peppers, Pine Nuts and a Balsamic Vinaigrette. ($9) 

Choosing a pasta course was a bit more difficult.  The night's menu offered 15 different pasta dishes, and  many tasty choices.  Among these were Penne all'Arrabbiata ($10), Capellini Giardino ($12), Penne Carciofo ($12) and a Timballo of Pasta, Bolognese sauce, Prosciutto Cotto,  Peas and Onions  ($13) were all  tempting.   The Spaghetti Aglio e Olio ($9) was tempting in its simplicity, but we passed on that for Penne alla Puttanesca ($11), and a simple dish of Rigatoni al Pomodoro ($11). 

The sauce on the Rigatoni dish was perfect in its flavors and consistency, and the prosciutto added a complexity that made the dish quite elegant.  The pasta was very al dente, and for most diners would probably not have been  acceptable.  We enjoy pasta al dente, but suggest that the rigatoni be cooked just a minute more.

The Puttanesca was perfect.  The sauce of tomatoes, capers, anchovies and olives was balanced and smooth.  The pasta was cooked to just the right al dente texture.

Next we sampled Sugo's  Ravioli of the Night - Ravioli with three cheeses and a white sauce.  These too were very good.  The ravioli were tender, and the cheeses chosen for the mixture complemented each other well. 

At this point we were too full to try a Secondi.  The choices included Pan Seared Salmon over Sautéed Spinach ($18), Sundried Tomato Pesto Grilled Swordfish ($19), Grilled Pork Chop over Sautéed Pepper, Olive and Caper mix with a Balsamic Glaze ($18), and finally a Pancetta Parmigiano Crusted Filet Mignon over Roasted Garlic, Sautéed Spinach and a Cabernet Reduction ($22).

The next thing that we perused was the extensive wine list. Almost all wines - with the exception of the Reserva List, can be ordered either by the glass or by the bottle.  We point out that bottle prices are a far better value.  For example, a glass of Vermentino di Gallura "Canayli" 2001 is $8, while a bottle is $23. Given that there are 4 glasses in a bottle, there is little reason not to take advantage of the bottle price.

White  wines are referenced as "Light and Refreshing",  "Medium Body- Dry" and Medium Body - Smooth", and Reds are "Medium Body", "Medium" and Full Body".  All wines are Italian and from very good wineries.  We were quite familiar with Rosso di Montepulciano, but not with the 2001 Nottola winery release.  We ordered a bottle ($23),  and it lived up to its Medium Body (Di Corpo Medio) designation.

For the wine aficionado, Sugo offers a Reserva List.  This list includes but is not limited to the following wines:

In summary,Sugo offers high quality Italian food at  prices most would find very reasonable.  The wine lists are impressive, and allow diners a choice of wines ranging from $17 to $245.

We recommend Sugo to anyone who enjoys Italian food, and who enjoys a warm and friendly ambiance.  If you decide to have a meal there, please let Chef Osso describe his approach to Italian food to you.

Last updated on: 12/10/03 10:17:28 PM