LECCABAFFI Ristorante
9719 North Hayden Road , Scottsdale, AZ,. 85258
Ph. 480-609-0429 - Fax 480-609-0408
Walking into Leccabaffi Ristorante (Leccabaffi means "lick your mustache" in Italian) was no different from walking into any fine dining room in Italy. The ambiance, the smells and the open table of cold antipasto were all reminiscent of our trips to Italy. Needless to say, we felt immediately at home. At this point , we could only hope that the food was as good as our visual and olfactory senses indicated. We had been told by a chef at another restaurant, a person of Sicilian ancestry by way of New York, that this was the best Italian restaurant in Scottsdale. It is.
The open kitchen is quiet and business like. The staff helpful but not intrusive. In fact, those who like a restaurant to fawn over its clients, may be a bit non-plussed. Service at Leccabaffi is relatively slow, and evenly paced. This restaurant offers a dining experience as opposed to a "place to eat".
We were served our bottle of wine, a Castello di Tassarolo by Gavi, mineral water and bread within 5-10 minutes of being seated. The bread was very good Italian style loaf, made of white and a bit of wheat flour. Upon questioning, we discovered that it was made at the restaurant.
For appetizers, we chose Alici Marinate con Sedano e Parmigiano - Marinated fresh anchovies, celery and Parmesan Cheese, and Insalatina di Tonno con Cannellini, Radicchio e Capperi - A salad of tuna, Cannellini beans radicchio and capers. The anchovies were marinated and every bit as good a any we have had anywhere, including Italy. The combination of thinly sliced Parmesan cheese and marinated celery afforded a nice mix of flavors and textures. The tuna salad was drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, but only lightly. The capers were used judiciously an did not not overpower the tuna taste.
Entrees included Risotto al Salto - Saffron rice sautéed with Parmesan and butter. This dish is prepared by making a saffron and Parmesan risotto, then putting the serving into a fry pan and cooking over moderate heat until a nicely browned crust forms. In some cases the cake which forms is turned over and the second side is crisped. That was not the case here. The creamy texture of the risotto on the inside was a perfect balance for the crust. The pieces of saffron thread in the rice were visible and enhanced the presentation. The second entree was Spaghettini da Leccarsi i Baffi - Spaghettini with shrimp, bell peppers, garlic and spicy chili powder pepper. The dish arrived at the table steaming hot and cooked al dente. The roasted green peppers were draped over the pasta and 5-6 shrimp were scattered judiciously throughout. The dish is a bit spicy, but not overly so. It indeed was a dish where one would or should lick one's mustache. When we finished this dish, the place looked like it had already been washed!
We decided to forgo the selection of desserts available and asked for a cheese selection. the server informed us that a cheese selection was not on the menu as such, but it would be no problem to make one up for us. This took about 15 minutes to prepare. When it arrived on an 18 inch platter, there was a selection of Provolone Piccante, Stracchino, Taleggio, ParmIgiano Reggiano and Fontina. We were quite pleased with the effort made on our behalf. All of the cheeses were fresh. the combination chosen by the cook was a good one as it balanced sweet, soft , hard and strong flavors.
By this time we had decided to cancel a reservation at another Italian restaurant in the valley for two nights hence and return to Leccabaffi. We did, and the meal was as as good. During this second meal we disclosed that we were there to review the restaurant.
During this second meal we chose Verdura di Campagna - a variety of marinated, grilled and sautéed vegetables, and Rucola, Ricotta, Olive e Pinoli - Arugula, home made ricotta cheese, olives and pine nuts as appetizers. for entrees, Gnocchetti di Semola alla Bava di Fontina e Groviera - Semolina gnocchi baked and sautéed with Fontina and Grovier cheeses, and Coniglio in Casseruola, all Aglio, Vino Bianco e Rosmarino - Fresh rabbit, sautéed with garlic, white wine and rosemary. All were excellent. We have eaten similarly prepared rabbit in other fine restaurants, and this was arguably the best we have ever had.
The cost of the first meal including wine, tax and tip was $121.83, and that of the second meal $97.00. Given the cost of meals in fine restaurants in metropolitan areas, eating at Leccabaffi Ristorante is reasonable given the quality of the food and the talented staff. We cannot recommend this restaurant too highly.
Last updated on: 05/28/03 05:04:08 PM